Choose Your Surf Spot Wisely

Surfing a new spot can be a daunting task. Without the proper knowledge, you could hurt yourself or worse yet, hurt someone else. Here are a few tips that will help you figure out a new spot without getting in any trouble.

Choose the right board

Always ride the appropriate board for the spot, the first thing to understand is which type of surfboard is best suited to the new spot you have chosen. Is it a longboard surfboard or shortboard surfboard spot? This is usually pretty obvious, but the crowd will tell you if you don’t already know. In general, short board spots consist of fast and hollow waves breaking over a shallow bottom with an aggressive crowd like the north shore surf spot Velzyland a.k.a. V-Land. Conversely, the long board spots are usually slower less hollow waves breaking in deeper water with much less aggressive crowds like the surf spot Canoes in Waikiki.

When most of the surfers are on short boards, chances are you’re at a short board spot and you won’t be welcome on your 10'0". Don’t bother paddling out. Instead, look for another spot or go get your 6'2". Short boarders are almost never happy to see a long boarder paddle out at their spot and on the other hand, a short boarder will always be welcome at a long board spot because you won’t be catching many waves. It makes more sense to ride your smaller board at the short board spot. You’ll most likely get a lot more waves without getting frustrated.

Before you paddle out

Before you paddle out, watch the waves. You should wait to see at least two sets break. Then watch a few surfers enter the water and paddle out which will give you a good indication as to where the channel is. Most surf breaks have a channel which is deeper than where the waves are breaking. Since the water is deeper, the waves don’t break in this area. It’s also where the water pushing shoreward from the breaking waves will turn and begin moving back out to sea. This makes it the best place to paddle out because you can use the out going current to your advantage. Now that you’ve located the channel, start scanning the area directly in front of the breaking waves. Look for any exposed rock or reef or even a change in water color. In clear water, which you'll find in Hawaii, you’ll see the color change from blue, in the deeper areas, to green or brown, in the shallow areas, which should be avoided to decrease your chance of injury. Make a mental note of these areas and plan an escape route in the event you should be pushed into this zone by a wave. Remember, as long as you’re taking off from the proper spot you probably won’t get near the danger zones so don’t let the reef or rocks scare you, just be aware of it.

Now, you’re ready to paddle out, but don’t rush it to get out. Even if you’re a good surfer it’s not a bad idea to sit in the channel or on the inside and watch another set from the water because things will always look different once you’re out there. After you’ve made the paddle, check the vibe in the line up and look for the best surfers. You’ll notice them first because they’ll be the ones getting the most waves. They’re going to be your best guide as to where the take off zone is. Watch and learn but don’t get in their way. If you can manage this without annoying, or crowding them you’ll be able to glean tons of knowledge about wave selection and positioning just by being a good observer. A little respect will get you a long way.

To get into the wave catching rotation, sit close to the peak but never force your way into the zone at a new spot. Be patient and sit on the outside edge of the pack, each time someone inside of you takes off move over into their space and eventually you’ll find yourself in position to catch a wave. Remeber to always look before you go. It’s easy to get caught up in the moment and drop into a wave you thought was yours without noticing someone else in better position then you. If you follow these simple guidelines, act respectfully, and surf the spot on a regular basis you’ll become one of the crew before you know it. Surf with aloha, and most of all, have fun!

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