Surfboard Origins
The development of the "perfect" surfboard
is continuously sought after though the dedication of many
surfers and surfboard shapers. Advances in the design have
changed from heavy, wooden boards to more hydrodynamic polyurethane
boards with stabilizing fins. Weight, shape, size, and material
variations allow for the most maneuverable and versatile
board possible. These alterations match the board accordingly
to its rider and wave.
Hawaii
People of Hawaii have been riding surf for centuries.
From the days of Captain Cook, 77-200 pound 10-16 foot
boards were documented. Longer boards were known to establish
noblemen and chief social status. These solid boards that
allowed multiple riders were used until the late 1930s.
Eighteenth century representatives can be seen in the
Bishop Museum in Honolulu, Hawaii.
Redwood, balsawood, fiberglass, and foam
In 1926, Tom Blake constructed a hollow board made out
of redwood. It seemed to make sense to reduce the board's
weight to increase its buoyancy. Although the boards were
still rather long, the decrease in weight was substantial.
Blake achieved this by putting holes in the core as well
as making the board thinner. Blake also was the first
to attach a fin in 1935 to give the board stability. The
fin prevents the board from sliding sideways on the wave.
Even with the increased control of the fin and lighter
hollow structure, the board could weigh up to 100 lbs.
Balsa wood was the next step to reducing the weight of
the surfboard to 30-40 pounds (1932). The rails were usually
made of redwood to strengthen the board. Pete Peterson,
in 1946, used redwood stringer down the centre with fibreglass
tape. George Downing then developed the polyurethane foam
“gun” in the 1950s. This long and narrow board
allowed for easier control and enabled the surfer to “hunt
down the big waves.”
Modern boards and shortboards
Shapes and materials continued to change throughout the
rest of the twentieth century. In 1949, Bob Simmons (also
known as the father of modern surfboards) introduced the
“rocker.” He made the boards curved rather
than straight to induce better water flow.
It was not until the 60s and 70s that short boards were
began to be seen in the water. The “pocket rocket”
is faster and more aggressive. With the addition of twin
fins (allowing more flowing carves) or Simon Anderson’s
tri-fin “thruster” arrangements, the most
maneuverable and controllable board can be obtained. Modern
surfboards have additions such as the leash (invented
by Jack O’Neill in 1971) and removable fins to make
the surfboard more desirable and safe. With the 2006 shutdown
of Clark foam, the manufacturer of polyurethane surfboard
blanks, innovative materials such as carbon fiber and
epoxy/foam mixtures can be seen in the surfing industry.
Personal preference could lead you to a quad-fin shortboard
or whatever future shapers happen to come up with next.
Related articles
Surfboard Design
A Beginner's Basic
on Surfboard Designs
Board design for
more advanced surfers
More surfing tips
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